April 22, 2008:

The journey ended with a true celebration of our collective culture. Some of the highlights from our closing days...

*"Nomad's Dream" Musical, directed by one of our students Nick K.: I was in my first musical! For those of you who know me and my vocal skills, you are probably laughing right now, as I still do when I think about it. I started out as a lyricist, which was great because I helped write the songs, but then somehow I got roped into singing as part of the chorus (I love you, Nick.). Greg, like me, does not claim to be a singer either, and somehow he got roped in, as well (Again, we love you, Nick.). Amy and Rob sang a love song called "Ocean's Apart," which brought me to tears at every rehearsal (Amy is my dear friend and Rob is one of our wonderful students. Amy is also our musical goddess.); Amanda, with her soulful voice, sang a song called "Quarantine Blues", written after 3 days of cabin confinement; Sarah performed a knock-out solo called "If I Were a Student," which was great given that she oversees judicials; and Malak, who has an incredible way with words, busted out in a little rap called "Partly Shady", alluding to our infamous navigational officer. The other songs were chorus numbers called "Pirates" and "Horizons." The music itself was written and played on the piano by one of our graduate students, Nate, whose musical talent is beyond words.

*Day stop in Portugal: I couldn't believe we were back in Lisboa again--A true full circle. Mel, Amanda, and I spent the morning walking around the city, pinching ourselves into reality. We stopped at a beautiful bead shop and enjoyed a glass of delicious port at a little cafe. Amanda and I then went to the same restaurant we had gone to with Makiko and Mariam almost 8 months ago--which had marked the beginning of our journey and the beginning of a special friendship. We enjoyed the same delicious meal and the same delicious sangria, which we toasted in their honor. We then met up with some of our other dear friends in celebration of Isis' birthday. It was a glorious day as we all sat in a little outdoor rooftop cafe, overlooking the city, with it's cobblestone roads and its pastel-colored buildings.

*"Intercultural Night": This consisted of highlight performances from all of our cultural shows, like the Bollywood Dance, Bellydance, Thriller, etc. I performed in our little Hip Hop "old school" segment again with Sam, Ja'hnette, and Jaimee, with Stephanie as our director. It was great to see all the talent, creativity, and hard work come together in our final show. Ron got it all on video, too, so I will be excited to show it!

*Closing Ceremony: This was our final ceremony on the evening of April 18th. A beautiful ending to an epic journey. There were messages shared to the world in our different languages, a surprise guest speaker, and a spiral dance that provided an opportunity to express intentional and heartfelt gratitude to each and every member of our community. After the close of the ceremony, everyone was invited out to the Aft deck as our Captain threw our "messages in a bottle" overboard for someone to one day discover.

And before we all could blink, April 19th arrived--a day filled with words of appreciation and tearful good-byes. Too surreal to describe and too soon to fully integrate. My parents came to Amsterdam to greet the ship, which meant the world to me, as they now have context for all the stories to come. I feel so blessed by their generosity, endless support, and unconditional love.

My mom and I leave for Iran today to spend a couple weeks with my grandparents and family before returning to Cali. I am very excited to be experiencing this with her, especially now, with an expanded appreciation. I am hoping it will also provide some space for me to begin unfolding the magnitude of this experience in my heart, as I know the process will take time.

I have millions of more thoughts in my head and millions of more stories to tell and feelings to express, but I will close for now, as there will be time for that in the days and weeks ahead.

My deepest gratitude for all those who have shared this journey with me, either through direct experience or through my blog. Thank you, thank you, thank you. I am eternally grateful.

Stay tuned...

Photos:
1. Sarah, Cherine, and me with the Captain during the Masquerade Ball
2. Sunrise pulling into Lisboa, Portugal
3. Amanda and Mel walking through Lisboa
4. Sunrise over the ocean during our final crossing

Photos from Turkey:
1. Oldtown Istanbul
2.-4. Amanda and my hike from Goreme through Pigeon Valley to Uchisar
5. Our ship! Taken during ferry ride down Bosphorous Strait

April 15, 2008

"Merhaba Turkey!"

Being in Turkey was a special experience for several reasons...

It was our last full port.
It was my last little TSS adventure with Amanda.
And it evoked a strong feeling of pride and connection with my (as Dad would say) Persian roots, given its geographic proximity to Iran and some cultural similarities.

The highlights…

Day 1:
*Took a little walking tour around the city. It feels very liberating to just lose myself in a new city. And Istanbul is just amazing, with reflections of both Europe and Asia uniquely integrated together. I spent most of my time walking around the the European side of "Old Istanbul".

*Was mesmerized by the beauty and history of the monuments:

1. Yen Mosque: Built between 1597 and 1663. Located in Eminonu. "An elegant fountain for ritual ablutions stands in the large courtyard and the sultan's section is decorated with marvelous Iznik tiles." Flooded by pigeons, which I thought added a very European city-like touch. The Yen Mosque was also right next to the Spice Bazaar, also referred to as the "Egyptian Bazaar," where the air is "filled with the enticing aromas of cinnamon, caraway, saffron, mint, thyme, and every other conceivable herb and spice." They also sell lots of little snacky treats made with nuts, dried fruit, honey, and marshmallow. A perfect place to try the infamous "Turkish Delights."

2. Sultanahmet Imperial Mosque (Blue Mosque): The elegant, imperial, six-minaret mosque of Sultanahmet I. Built between 1609 and 1616. It's known as the Blue Mosque because of its "magnificent interior decoration of blue Iznik tiles." The blue lights are particularly magnificent at night.

3. Ayasofya Museum (Saint Sophia): Ancient basilica built by Constantine the Great in the 4th century and reconstructed by Justinian in the 6th century. Its immense dome rises 55 meters above ground and is 31 meters in diameter. The decoration includes Byzantine mosaics. Located right across from the Blue Mosque. It was incredible to stand in between these two architectural wonders.

*On this first day, I also noticed a nice healthy proportion of beautiful Turkish men! As my friend Brandon would say, a "talented" crowd.

Day 2:
*Took a ferry ride with Sarah, her friend Joy (who was visiting from California and actually sailed with my friend Danelle on SAS!), Amanda, and Christy down the Bosphorus strait, zigzagging across the European and Asian shores. We had great views of Dolmabahce Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace, and Rumeli Fortress. We stopped for lunch in one of the little villages on the Asian side and hiked up to see a spectacular view of the Black Sea, where we enjoyed a nice lunch before re-boarding the ferry.

*After the ferry excursion, we stopped to buy a sampler of nut and honey baklava-like sweets (so many variations of walnut, pistachios, etc.) and ate them in a little plaza by the Yen Mosque and Spice Bazaar.

*Amanda and I parted from the group and began our last little TSS adventure. True to tradition, we had no transportation booked; just knew that we wanted to head towards central Turkey to Konya and Cappadocia.

*Met many friendly people along the way. Many of the stores and restaurants have people standing outside to recruit customers. The hook is "Hi, where are you from?" We got all kinds of guesses, especially Amanda. I got Spanish a lot. But the quote of the week: "Don't break my plastic heart." Part of the Turkish hospitality is also to invite people in for tea--Everywhere you go: restaurants, cafes, carpet stores, hotels, etc. I drank more tea in one week than I have in my entire life. Good tea. And there were options: Turkish Tea and Apple Tea.

*Stopped at train station--Spent about 30 minutes talking to the guy working at the Tourist information office. Actually, we mainly just listened to his philosophies on life and helped proofread a schedule he had written in English for his two kids (of whom we saw pictures). Eventually found out that the next train to Konya was not until after 11:00 pm and that it was about 14 hours. Time to check flights.

*Booked an 11:00 pm flight to Konya (1-hour flight versus 14-hour train/bus ride)--Easy decision.

*Spent some time trying to book hotels, with which we were unsuccessful.

*Had dinner at a little restaurant recommended by Cuma, a man from one of the carpet stores. Were personally escorted by the guy from the restaurant to the tram (hospitality I tell you!), which we took to the metro station and then to the airport.

*Arrived in Konya; Took a very expensive cab ride into the town center, with a taxi driver that spoke no English. And Amanda's and my Turkish is a little rusty (or non-existent), so it was an amusing experience trying to look for a hotel. Bless his heart, though, because the driver literally walked us in the hotel to ask for a room, and when he found out the hotel was booked, he found us another one at Otel (As in "hotel" without the "h") Mevlana. It was midnight by now, so this was very much appreciated. The funniest part of the cab ride was that the cab driver was doing what many of us do when communicating with someone who doesn't understand your language--He would just repeat what he said but louder.

*Checked into Otel Mevlana, which was very fitting, given that we had come to Konya to visit the Mevlana Museum. Chatted with Mustafeh, the sweet Hotel Manager, and then headed off to bed in our red satin-decorated room.

Day 3:
*Awoke at 5:30 am by a that voice that rung throughout the town--It was a call to worship ("ezan") from one of the mosques. This happens 5 times a day, and is so embedded in the culture and religious practice of Muslims that when we asked later what it was, people didn't know to what we were referring. The call is the melodic voice of a religious leader from one of the mosques, whose voice is transmitted through mosques all around a particular region. I don't know quite how to describe the singing, but I'll never forget it--rich, ancient, hypnotic, comforting, beautiful.

*Visited the Mevlana Museum, where Mevlana Jelaleddin Rumi was buried. Rumi is a Persian poet who is widely recognized for his Sufi poetry, which conveys messages of divine love and unity. The profundity, spiritual depth, and lyrical beauty of his work in indescribable. And the layers captured in each line of rhyming couplets leaves an emotional imprint even before conscious interpretation. Visiting Konya and this museum in particular was special to me because my parents have been studying Rumi's work for over a year now and have been so moved and inspired by it. I also feel drawn to the Sufi philosophy and want to learn more, as I explore my own spiritual path. My parents had sent me an English translation of Rumi's work called Masnavi. On the airplane ride, Amanda and I read through the Introduction and the first piece called "The Song of the Reed." One of the most significant moments for me was when Amanda and I walked into the museum, past the front foyer, and into the room where Rumi and his family members' tombs were, at which we both instantly and simultaneously felt this sensation, this spiritual energy, run through our bodies. We walked up to Rumi's tomb and stood in silence for a few moments, enamored by the magnetism in the air, when this woman walked up beside us, emotion brimming in her eyes, and speaking in Turkish, which we interpreted to be something like "Can you believe we are actually here?" It was like an enchanting dream.

*One of the messages I distinctly remember by Rumi, which was displayed at the museum and written in the museum publications: "Either seem as you are; Or be as you seem." Upon first reading it, we had to stop for a moment and let the words sink in. We smiled to ourselves as the profundity of the message before concluding with some comic relief, "If Rumi were a rapper..."

*Side note: I think you have to be an attractive Turkish man to work at the Mevlana museum. Seriously.

*After leaving the museum, met this older retired Turkish man on the street, who wanted to show us around the town and practice his English. Bless his heart; He even went with us to lunch, where he just sat, smoking his cigarette, and offering up any information he could provide us about Turkey, it's history, politics, etc. After lunch (which was delicious, by the way), he took us on a little tour of a museum (filled with bones, rocks, clothing, etc. Just a little random but cool.) and then the Alaaddin Mosque, the oldest historical building in Konya of the Seljuk period.

*Ate some delicious Turkish sweets and hot tea at a little pastry shop --On the house!

*Invited to the tea "central station" by a man that looked like he stepped out of the show "Dynasty" from the 80's. I'm not kidding--the hair, the sweater vest; He had it all! This was the place where people called in for their tea orders. There was a group of men inside, with whom we chatted about football (soccer) and a few other random things given our limited Turkish vocabulary and their limited English vocabulary. Hilarious.

*Went to a hookah cafe, where I officially smoked my first nargile (i.e., hookah)--apple flavored. Smoking is not my thing, but it was fun to just try it. And it's flavorful--not like the nicotine flavor in cigarettes.

*Goal was to have 10 cups of tea today. Mission accomplished.

Day 4:
*Hopped on bus to Cappadocia. Dropped off in Nevsehir, without a plan really.

*Guys from bus station's tourist office put us on a shuttle to Goreme. An amazing place. The landscape looks like a movie set--the result of volcanic explosions and years of erosion. The shuttle dropped us off right in front of Gumus Cave Hotel, where the rooms are actual caves! It was great. Caves have definitely been one of the themes for Amanda and me during these last 7 months.

*Enjoyed a late Turkish lunch of Testi Kabob (vegetables baked in a pot, which is cracked open right in front of you) at Cafe Turca.

*Had a wonderful Turkish bath--sauna, scrub down, and relaxation.

*Walked around the little town. Had a very meaningful and thought-provoking spiritual discussion about Rumi's work with a store owner named Sayed.

Day 5:
*Hiked through Pigeon Valley--Again, the rock formations were incredible. Every few steps was a new picture.

*Hiked to Uchisar, where we visited a "typical Turkish house". The family had lived there for years and had now turned their home into a bed and breakfast and allowed tourists to walk through to see the cave rooms. The owner Ishtar and his son Adnan gave us a tour. And two cups of tea, of course.

*Saw what are referred to as "pigeon houses"--tall cone-like cave-like formations. People used to live in them hundreds of years ago. Apparently the name was derived from a time when pigeons would do their thing on the window sills, and the waste was collected as fertilizer.

*Side note: Words are not doing these places justice right now--I will just have to show pictures.

*Had lunch overlooking the amazing valley of rock formations. Met a girl named Malak from Canada who joined us.

*Hiked back to Goreme.

*Booked a flight back to Istanbul through Nomad Travel with Hassan.

*Ate dinner at a traditional home-cooked restaurant called Dibek. A "dibek" is a traditional container used for mixing meat, tomatoes, and herbs and spices. We sat around a low table on these big floor cushions and enjoyed some homemade wine, delicious soup, and this dish that looks a little like a quesadilla with feta cheese and thin bread. It starts with a "g", but the name escapes me right now. The restaurant itself was a 475-year old house. Mohammed, the owner, was the 5th generation living there.

*Listened to live music while sipping tea at the Goreme Restaurant. It was beautiful--drums, the saz (Turkish guitar), and singing. There was only a handful of people at the restaurant--It felt like our own little "Turkish Night" (a popular dance performance event).

Day 6:
*Flew back to Istanbul. Ran into Nancy at the Nevsehir airport! She had her own little fun adventure in Cappadocia.

*Came back to the ship, got ready, and went out with Amanda to Taksim--an area with lots of little restaurants and bars. Found a cute little place with live music and a big family celebrating what seemed like some kind of special occasion--with lots of dancing and singing. We just had to join. Sis, you and Mo would have been right there dancing with us!

*Met up with TSSers at a bar called Deniz (which means "sea) for Kim's birthday. I think most of the ship was there! Great last port night out together.

Day 7:
*Woke up early and went out for breaky with Amanda, T.J., and Lorna.

*Found a cute little local spot, where the owner was this older (older) man--Court, you would have loved him. We didn't understand each other but were somehow able to communicate and enjoy a great Turkish breakfast of fresh bread, honey and cheese, and a hard-boiled egg. And tea. Always tea.

*Lorna, Amanda, and I then dropped TJ back off at the ship because she had to work and headed to the Grand Bazaar of more than 4,000 shops, with each trade having its own area--goldsmiths arts and crafts, ceramics, Turkish Delights and spices, etc.

*Visted the Basilica Cistern near Hagia Sophia. Founded by Byzantine Emperor, it is called "the Sinking Palace" by the public owing to the great number of marble columns arising out of the water. Two of the columns are resting on Medusa heads, and it is not known from exactly where the two heads came. The place is very dim and cool, with ancient-sounding music playing in the background, creating an enchanting, almost mystical-like atmosphere.

I think that wraps it up once again. I really enjoyed my time in Turkey and would love to go back some time and see more of the country. Definitely one of my favorite ports. Have I said that before? Probably.

It's now almost 7:00 am on April 15, and we are just pulling into Lisbon. For us returners, we have just made "the loop" around the world! I can't believe we were here 8 months ago. Actually, we officially made the loop when we passed by Greece and celebrated with a special "loop party" in Sarah's cabin. Sarah loves loops. It's great.

So, I will end with a "serefe!"...Turkish for "cheers", or in other words, "to good health!”

This is the poem I wrote while in Spain. I read it at our last open mic a couple nights ago. Some of the references might not make sense to those not on the ship, and I can explain them later. I think it captures the bittersweetness I feel as we approach the end of the voyage...

"The Addiction"
A tribute to The Scholar Ship J08 Voyage


I'm addicted to this place, on this here boat
A traveling island upon which we float.

Only four months, for some it's been eight
What brought us together? I call it fate.

So much we have lived in this short time
With forty nations, I forget which one's mine.

From China to Thailand, that was our start
And suddenly Spain, looking at art.

Can we slow down from Turkey, turn back the clock
Pretend we got lost, or hit by a rock?

Come on Captain, you took back some hours
Gave part-cloudy skies with a couple of showers.

I fear the ending; I need a new cause
I feel the addiction, yet long for a pause.

The intensity, the emotions, from a wide selection
A roller coaster ride and no stop for reflection.

I'm tired now, on this here boat
A traveling carnival, upon which we float.

And I ache already for this here boat
It's now our home upon which we float.

But I'm tired of waves that knock me to sleep
Of nausea so bad, that some start to weep.

And I'll miss those waves that rock me to sleep
With each ocean sunset, the sight makes me weep.

But I'm tired of my food being whisked away
When a minute was all I left my tray.

And I'll miss seeing Vic when we move away
And his gracious smile, as he takes me tray.

But I'm tired of questions they come without warning
No matter the stairwell or time in the morning.

And I'll miss those talks--true gifts without warning
And the comfort in knowing, I'll see you in the morning.

But I'm tired of being forced to always debrief
I don't want to process; I need some relief.

And I'll miss the experience of shared debrief
With people who care; a special relief.

But I'm tired of this laundry, of shrinking shirts
I'm getting a complex; No more desserts!

And I'll miss coming back to my folded shirts
And the care that goes into our homemade desserts.

But I'm tired of having to choose in each port
What will I miss; A week is too short.

And I'll miss the adventures that come with each port
How lucky are we in a life that's too short?

But I'm tired of constantly switching gears
From boats to ports; I've aged ten years.

And I'll miss the movement of switching gears
A lifetime of novelty in weeks; not years.

But I'm tired of culture this and that
What if it's not culture; What if she's just a brat?

And I'll miss the songs of this culture and that
When below the iceberg we finally chat.

Do you now see why I'm so conflicted
Why I am tired and also addicted?

Do you see why I'm scared to leave this place
Yet why I can no longer sustain this race?

It's seeped to my core, this here boat
This space in time upon which we float.

What will we remember when we look back
Which memories will flood as we start to unpack?

And which memories will we really favor
Vividly recall, hold onto, and savor?

I bet they're not the ones we imagine
But rather the ones we just cannot fathom.

And when I stop to wonder was all of this real
The sights, the sounds, did all this I feel?

I'll turn to you, and you'll tell me it's real
And without a word, you'll know how I feel.

The final stretch on this here boat
I honor this symbol which kept us afloat.

And after this journey, I'll say with conviction
The world I was given through this addiction.

Pictures:

1. Gaudi architecture from Park Guell

2. Monteserrat trip

3. One of the many picturesque allies in Barcelona

4. Caramelles--Catalonia Easter tradition in Sitges

5. MNAC in Montjuic park

Pictures:

1. Bollywood dance performance from our fırst cultural show
2. Kersten and Gianni's Weddiıng on the Aft deck of the ship
3. Amanda, Sarah, and I performiıng "Bust the Move" at the TSS Idol Drag Show
4. Sarah, Ron, Dana, Amanda, and I hiıking in Cape Verde
5. Me in front of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona

Hola Amigos!

We just arrived in Istanbul, Turkey this morning!  A few of us woke up early to watch the ship pull into port.  It was a beautiful journey through the waterways that passed the old city, with it's magnificent mosques and historical reflections.  It was also cool to see the transcontinental bridge, linking Europe and Asia.  Right now, we're waiting for the ship to be cleared, and I am finally getting to my Spain summary.  So, stay tuned for more on Turkey later.

SPAIN:

Barcelona was a beautiful port city, with amazing architecture and a vibrant European feel.  

Day 1:

On the first day, I decided to take off on my own and explore Barcelona.  It always feels good to walk on land after a long leg at sea.  We arrived on Good Friday, so a lot of the city was shut down, except for the touristy sites.  I walked through Ramblas, which is "Barcelona's most characteristic avenue", aligned with restaurants, shops, street vendors, etc.  Danelle compared it to 3rd Street Promenade in Santa Monica, California, which seems fitting.  I was very struck by the architecture of the city--It's one of those places where every alley way looks like  a picture.  Chris B., you would have been in heaven.  Barcelona is said to be the heart of the Catalonian region of northeast Spain, with it's own culture, language, and traditions.

I was pretty much just wandering around, losing myself in the city, when I came upon Casa Batllo, one of Gaudi's buildings, on the Passeig de Gracia.  Antoni Gaudi is considered to be one of Barcelona's most famous modernist architects.  His beautiful use of colored mosaics and ceramics are striking.  Lorri S., I thought of you and the mosaic pots you make!  And January, I could totally see you decorating your bathroom using this style.  There was a long line into the Casa Batllo, so I just  admired it from the outside, where I met Yudit, a woman from Hungary.  We ended up walking together and chatting, as she had just recently arrived from England, and was also touring the city.  From there, my new BFF and I walked through Placa Gracia, one of Barcelona's less touristy barrios.  We ended up at Park Guell, a large urban park, filled with Gaudi's mosaic work and a spectacular view of the city.  After walking around the park and visiting the Casa Museu Gaudi, we decided to hike up to Tibadabo, a magnificent castle-like church resting on top of a mountain, guaranteeing another great view of the city.  Well, our little hike ended up being a lot longer than we anticipated, as we circled the mountain, following the music, towards what seemed like a mirage at the top.  Once we finally reached the top, we realized that the music was actually coming from a fun fair-park next to the church.  And we also discovered that were other direct routes by vehicle.  Oh well; We earned the view, right?:-)  The church was gorgeous--We even witnessed a confessional, which may not be unique for some, but it was my first time seeing one (other than the movies).  It was quite cold and windy at the top, and Yudit and I were hungry, so we took the bus back down to Placa de Catalunya and found a cute little restaurant on a little side street off Boqueria.  Before dinner, however, we witnessed a Good Friday processional parading through the streets--a float of who I assumed to be the Virgin May followed by a marching band.

Day 2:

This was a great day.  I had the opportunity to spend time with Cherine, Isis (her mother and our staff psychologist), Chris (her brother who had just arrived to sail with us), Thea (one of the professors from California), and Joye (the visiting Executive Officer for the September 2008 voyage).  It was so nice to spend time with a family again, as I felt the comfort of being with my own.  There was one point during the day when we were riding in the taxi van, and I felt the familiarity of riding in my parents' van at home.  It was nice.   

We had a full day of:

*visiting the Torres Winery, where we took a tour that included an olfactory sensory experience of the four seasons

*traveling up to Montessarat, a unique natural mountain formation, where we toured the art museum, listened to monks singing at the Benedictine Monastery, and each toasted a glass of wine, as we expressed our gratitude for this special experience together

*enjoying an evening at a little cafe called Acoma on Boqueria, with an outdoor patio.  It was such a perfect scene: delicious tapas, the musical sounds of the band's clarinet, guitars, and melodic voices (The man playing the clarinet was actually Pat--our Academic Dean's--friend from Scotland.  The other band members were a beautiful guitarist from Cape Verde and one from Senegal), the Spanish ceramic wall pieces, the open night sky against an illuminating tower, and a tree canopy over our heads, with one single orange dangling down.

Day 3:

Okay, I'm realizing that this account is going to take a while if I continue to write out all the details, so I will switch to a summary of highlights:

*Went for early morning run through Barcelona by the water, through beautiful Park Ciutadella, and through alleys lined with tall pastel-colored buildings, flower pots hanging from balconies, bakeries, cafes--The scene reminded me somewhat of Venice.

*Rode the train to Girona, a neighboring medieval city, where everything seemed to be closed for the Easter holiday, except of course, a small Japanese restaurant, where I had a late sushi lunch.  

*Rode the train back to Barcelona and then onto Sitges, a beautiful neighboring beach town, which was truly picturesque.  Received a spontaneous little tour of the town by Jordi, a student from Barcelona who was home for the holiday.  

*Stayed the night in a little hotel after wandering around the town.  Ate pintxos at a local bar in honor of Danelle.  Pintxos, the basque version of tapas, are little slices of bread topped with any assortment of fish, cheese, ham, tortillas, fruit paste, etc. They're usually speared with a toothpick, that you leave on your plate, so the cashier will know what to charge you.  Court, you would have been in sampler heaven!

Day 4:

*Spent the day admiring Sitges's quaint little coastal scenery, where again, every street reveals the beautiful Spanish architecture.  Enjoyed a late picnic breakfast by the beach--fresh bread from the bakery, fresh cottage cheese, and a banana.  A great little combo.   

*Witnessed a Catalonian Easter tradition called Caramelles, still practiced by three families in Sitges, who spend the entire day serenading at different residencies and restaurants/cafes.  They carry a tall pole, with a hanging money basket, and topped by a bouquet of flowers, receiving donations for future family trips (at least this is how it was explained to me).  They  would pop into local cafes from time to time for a drink and some snacks.  Sara C., it was almost like an Easter pub crawl!  I followed them around for a little while because it was just so fun to watch.  Initially I was singing a little with them (They had passed out song sheets.) but then realized that it's traditionally men who sing for the families of their loves.  Oops:-)  When in Rome, right?

*Left Sitges as the sun was setting and rode the train back to Barcelona, where I hopped on the overnight train to Madrid.  I know, I know--I'm an experience addict.  Or as Ronalee and Michael would say "experience junky."  Actually, Cherine, Sarah, and came up with a new term: "experience collectors."  

*The sleeper train cabins were designated by gender (Mom, I can read your mind.), so I bunked up in a little cabin with 5 other females--a crying woman, two chatty friends (who I literally think would periodically wake up in the middle of the night to exchange a few words), and a mother and her child.  It was a fun adventure--my first time taking a sleeper train.  Plus, it saved me two nights of hotel.  We (me and my bunkmates) went to sleep around 11 pm, and woke up at 7 am in Madrid!  Easy.

Day 5:

If you're wondering why I wanted to go to Madrid, I don't really have a specific reason, other than I just wanted to see it.  It's another region in Spain, it's the capitol city, and our Spanish students from both voyages are from there.

*Woke up very excited to tour the city.  Left the train station, popped into a hotel to freshen up, and then made my way to the city center.  Walked everywhere.  For hours.  Literally.  I was hobbling by the end.  Saw the Plaza Mayor--a plaza that has been the center of the city since Felipe II made it the site of the court in 1561.  

*Saw a TV scene being shot for a Spanish TV series called "Second Opportunity."  I randomly ran into it on one of the side streets.  The producer filled me in on what was happening as best as he could considering our language gap.  Sis and Jason L., I thought of you both!  

*Visited the Museo Nacional del Prado, with a comprehensive collection from around the world.  Artists include El Bosco (interesting depictions of heaven and hell and "earthly delights"), Goya (many portraits with exaggerated, blurred features), and Velazquez (appearing to portray a variety of themes and subjects).  Okay, so I have to admit that I have never heard of any of these artists beforehand, but I felt good about my little "arts and culture" experience.  Courtney R. from the UCI Career Center: A special little shout out to you--I needed you there to shed your art history wisdom.  And David B., where was Sister Wendy when I needed her?

*Walked around the Parque del Retiro and then the Real Jardin Botnico, where I ran into Pablo (one of our students from Madrid), as he was giving a tour of his home to some of our other TSSers.  The botanical garden was beautiful--You would have loved it, Mom.  And Meagan T.--There were beds of tulips everywhere!  I laid down on one of the benches for a little nap before heading to Malasana, more of a locals area in Madrid, where I enjoyed a delicious dinner at Casa Maraulass.  I, with my Spanish fluency, took the waiter's advice and ordered the Sepia a la Plancha, not knowing what it was, but it turned out to be a tasty fish cooked in garlic.  Can't go wrong, right Mariam M.?  

*Finished off the evening at a Cuban cafe for dessert and tea before heading back to the train station.

Day 6:

*Woke up to the voices of men chatting outside the train cabin, as they awaited our arrival.  They were eager beavers at 6:30 am--Ready for Barcelona!  

*Walked from the train station up towards Placa d'Espayna, stopping by a bakery for some fresh bread and then a market for cheese and fruit.  I think I could spend hours at these markets.  

*Ate my little picnic breakfast on a bench, with a view of Placa d'Espanya on my left and the Museu Nacional D'Arte de Catalunya (MNAC) in the Montjuic park on my right.  Montjuic is Barcelona's "most important national park and is an oasis of calm and nature in the middle of the urban agglomeration that is the city."  

*Walked through the park--Actually, was really hobbling at this point from all the walking over the previous days (and I think that the long hike up to Tibidabo in my $8 boots from Shanghai didn't help).  I couldn't go back to the ship, though; There was so much I wanted to see!  

*Compromise: Found a little outdoor cafe in the park called La Font del Gat, where I sat for at least an hour, resting my feet, sipping tea, and writing in my journal.  I ended up writing a closing poem for our voyage, as it helped me to begin articulating my feelings around re-entry.  I'll remember to post it later.

*Took the metro to Sagrada Familia, a famous building in Barcelona which began construction over 100 years ago and is projected to finish by the year 2022.  It has two facades: the Passion and the Nativity.  Very striking.  I found a little outdoor cafe nearby called Babilonia Gaudi, where I could enjoy the view of this grandiose structure,while finishing my leftover cheese with some fresh bread and sipping a glass of Spanish wine.   

*Eventually headed back to the ship, where I immediately saw Alfred, the Director of OBL from our first voyage!  He's coming back for the third voyage and is sailing on the remainder of our journey to Amsterdam.  An inspiring, deep, heartfelt visionary, whose passion is contagious.  

*Went out on the town with Ron, Christy, Amanda, Nancy, Chris, and two of our students, Luis and Taylor.  We ended up at a little local tapas bar called Nou Candanchu in Placa Gracia (where I enjoyed some octopus--still love those tentacles) and then onto a couple other little bars off Rambla and Laietana.  It wasn't until about 4 am when we made our way back on the ship.  Not sure how the time passed so quickly!

Day 7:

*Slept in a little bit, as you could image.  Then headed to Palau de la Musica Catalana, built by a modernist architect called Domenech i Montaner.  The music hall has been declared a Unesco World Heritage site, and its lavish decor makes it look like "a piece of jewelry."  A special shout out to Anthony T., as the music hall was not too far from the city's Gothic Quarter.  

*Ran into a Dollar Store!  Court and Mom, you would have been excited.  It was actually a Euro store, but same concept.  I took a photo for you both.  Court, I'm sorry to say, there were no ring holders.

*Found another little market area, where I bought some fruit, drank some tea, and wrote a few post cards home.  Did you know I like markets?  

*Finally headed back to the ship for our 4:00 ETL (Embarkation Time Limit, in case I hadn't stated that before).

Well, I guess that sums up my trip in Spain.  I really loved this port and would like to come back one day, when I can explore other regions of the country, as I imagine they each have their own unique culture.  It also re-confirmed my desire to learn the Spanish language.  It's interesting, though, how much you can communicate through non-verbals.  I obviously couldn't have deep conversations but could still make out the gist of what was being said.  I think some people would initially assume I was Spanish, too.  It's funny because I would try to ask questions in Spanish, yet have no idea what the return responses would be.  And I definitely don't speak Catalan--although, they say "valleh", which means "okay" and is pronounced like the farsi word "balleh".  So that's at least one word:-)  

Adieus for now!  Time for Turkey...